01 / ABOUT THE PLACE
About this place
Head downstairs into the basement of the Akasaka Chigiraya Building, and you are welcomed into a serene dining room centered around a clean-lined sushi counter. The omakase courses that have earned Itsumi its reputation weave traditional Edomae-style nigiri together with inventive cooked small plates in an engaging, brisk rhythm. Dishes highlighting pristine seasonal ingredients set the tone early, such as a luxurious bite topping Pacific bluefin tuna nakaochi with sea urchin and caviar, or red sea bream cured in kelp to deepen its umami.
Thoughtful touches also shine throughout the warm interludes and small bowls served between rounds of sushi. Items like karinto-style deep-fried abalone, lightly braised until sweet and then fried crisp, alongside steamed Spanish mackerel in clear broth and dashi-rich tamagoyaki, establish pleasant contrasts in texture and temperature. For the nigiri, seasoned rice with distinct, well-defined grains anchors pieces passed across the counter one by one: lean red tuna, medium-fatty chutoro, flame-seared splendid alfonsino, and tender sea eel, each balanced with care.
The course reaches an anticipated peak with the house specialty: "Sushi-Ya TKG." This variation on classic tamago kake gohan layers finely chopped marinated seafood over rice with whipped, airy meringue and a rich egg yolk, and guests can adjust the rice portion to suit their appetite. Meticulous execution continues through to the briny aroma of the soup and an affogato made by pouring rich matcha over salted ice cream, maintaining a memorable impression through dessert.
The drink program offers extensive support for the meal as well. Starting with toasts poured from sparkling Dassai 45, the cellar features labels from across Japan, including Katsuyama, Kokuryu, Zaku, and Akitora, allowing diners to tailor their pour to the fat and sweetness of the food. White wines, craft sencha highballs, and Japanese black tea highballs broaden the selections for anyone seeking different flavors to set off the sushi.
Seating includes counter places that give a direct view of the chef's knife work, alongside table arrangements and private dining rooms. Because both lunch and dinner services frequently book out, reserving a seat well in advance is recommended.
